Tales of the unexpected: carpe diem!

adventurous rooute to Nizwa, Oman

In Oman I was faced with the choice between this 'adventurous route', said to be a shortcut over mountains; or a 'black top' tarmac road.

Many more of us than usual have been forced out of our usual ‘comfort zone’ by events over the past week. Following the ejection of vast quantities of fine volcanic ash from Icelandic volcano Eyjafjallajokull, most of the UK and much of northern European airspace was closed to aviation for safety reasons for almost a week. An event without precedent in aviation terms.

Several serious near disasters involving passenger jets previously flying through clouds of volcanic ash around the ‘Pacific Ring of Fire’ near the Indonesian volcanoes of Mount Galunggung (1982), Mount Pinatubo (1991) and Mounts Redoubt and Spur in Alaska (in 1989 and 1992 respectively), lay behind the reaction of the authorities this time. Aviation and meteorological authorities, and air traffic control organisations all united to take a conservative approach, unilaterally closing large swathes of airspace as a precautionary measure with almost immediate effect, declaring the safety of passengers paramount, over-riding all commercial considerations.

The event also happened at a time when large volumes of people were travelling following the Easter holiday, traditionally a time of peak traffic flows in Europe.

What was different this time

Air travel was disrupted to an unprecentedented extent; but what was noticeably different this time (and from the cessation of aviation following 9/11) was the unexpected duration and the consequential huge and unanticipated knock on effect on other transport networks within Europe and further afield, as people have become unexpectedly stranded, and given the duration of the problem,  started (with admirable and increasing amounts of ingenuity as days of disruption continued), to seek alternative ways to complete their journeys, in spite of the additional cost, causing huge short term spikes in demand for alternative transport services with limited capacity.

If the disruption had gone on much longer I belive that more people would have started looking at long distance travel by ship, although it’s generally much slower and has limited capacity. During the disruption Royal Navy ships were deployed to bring troops home from Afghanistan with some civilians, via ports in Spain.

Unlikely beneficiaries of disruption

In the UK, ferry companies and Eurotunnel have seen traffic volumes increase significantly over what they would normally expect at this time of year as people made their way to the Channel Ports to return to the UK.  Eurostar, inter-European rail travel and coach operators such as Eurolines also benefited as people switched their attention to long distance overland alternatives to air travel. 

Other beneficiaries were less popular air routes that conveniently happened to avoid the restricted airspace. Ben Fogle, for example, flew part of his epic journey home from Ethiopia from Beirut to Rome.

In all millions of peoples’ lives and plans were thrown into unexpected chaos.  With no immediate end to the eruption in sight, further uncertainty and inconvenience seemed inevitable, until Nature calmed down a bit. Fortunately the aviation industry has united in declaring it safe for the travelling public to return to the skies today; although further disruption is not out of the question.

The case for personal contingency planning

It set me thinking about what steps people can take to prepare for, and subsequently deal with, the unexpected when they’re travelling, so they don’t get too badly caught out when some sort of disaster or unexpected event strikes.

As this week’s events have demonstrated only too well, the unexpected can strike tourism at any time. All too often we get surprised by something coming ‘out of the blue’. Can anything be done?

The first thing to say is that any unexpected event throws up a number of choices and opportunities, the most obvious of which is to do nothing and hunker down wherever you are, and hope that the problem will either go away or be swiftly resolved by people acting on your behalf and in your best interest. That can be a good strategy if time is on your side and the consequences are limited, and an end to disruption is in sight, or can be accurately predicted. This time, with the possibility of the ash cloud causing a continuing problem, it seemed to be  an unwise strategy. Taking action has the benefit of preventing you from feeling a victim of changed circumstances, putting you back in control of your own destiny.

A few years ago I was involved in the meetings and incentives side of the travel business, and during that time I got used coping with the unexpected. I learned to welcome the choices and challenges that unexpected events threw up. In my experience it was usually hotel strikes, lost documents or passports, illness or crime that caused the most  problems. I continue to believe that resourcefulness, ingenuity, persistence and patience are the most important attributes to  see you through a crisis, or indeed life in general!

It’s never my intention to offer anything other than constructive advice; but for what it’s worth, here are my thoughts on dealing with unexpected travel events. I’d also like to make it clear that I’m not referring to anything involving medical emergencies or life threatening situations, not only because I have no experience of them; but also because they involve a different set of considerations.

Before you go away

  1. Always take copies of all your passports and insurance documents and leave them with someone at home you trust. Try and familiarise yourself with insurance policy exclusions before you travel. This exercise can be a sobering experience. Make a note of the insurance helpline number, take it with you and keep it safe. For travel within Europe get an E11 card.
  2. Subscribe to a card protection scheme that helps you get swift replacement of credit and debit cards in case they get lost or destroyed during a incident while you’re away. There’s usually a cost, but it’s a small price to pay if disaster strikes.
  3. Always tell your credit card company when you plan to be travelling abroad, so you don’t encounter problems getting approval of  ‘out of pattern expenses’. Even if you’re not planning to use the card except in an emergency, it gives you peace of mind to know you’ve got something by way of financial resources to fall back on.
  4. Buy or borrow a map and guidebook or two. Familiarise yourself with the geography and general background information about your destination in advance. Take them with you if possible. They can be an invaluable planning resource (with phone numbers and website addresses) and you might avoid having to negotiate directory enquiries at a time when communications networks are overloaded.
  5. Take a smart phone and charger away with you. Having email, access to social networks and internet access can each be invaluable in helping you keep up to date with news and getting about in places you don’t know.

When trouble affects travel plans

  1. Stay calm and establish the facts about the unexpected situation affecting  travel arrangements, and the expected duration of the problem. If you have advance notice of a problem you might consider curtailing your trip and making a dash for home, but you’ll have to act fast.
  2. If you’re on an organised or package tour make contact with the operator or their local agent. Request help and give them your contact details and mobile phone number if you have one so that they can reach you easily. If you booked direct, contact the carrier concerned.
  3. Examine and evaluate alternative travel options and costs. Compare this with the expense of staying put until the situation is resolved. Look at your insurance policy exclusions, as you may not be covered for ‘Acts of God’, and you may not get a refund for unused travel arrangements until long after you return home.
  4. Make friends with others similarly affected. You might be able to club together to share intelligence or transport expense. In any event keep your ear to the ground and make use of the ‘bush telegraph’.
  5. Make use of any local contacts you might have. The past week has shown that in a crisis, ex boyfriends, long lost relations, or even passing acquaintances in a far flung land can provide useful help and information.
  6. The more urgently you desire to travel, the more likely you are to end up out of pocket. That’s where patience can be useful. If you do need to get back home urgently you’ll  need maximum ingenuity and persistance. This was demonstrated by John Cleese’s return trip to the UK from Oslo in Norway.
  7. Take photographs and consider writing your story. The media may be interested in running your story while you’re away, and you might even get paid.
  8. Contact anyone at home who needs to know what’s happening. You might be like some lucky people this week, whose relations drove over with a car by ferry to pick them up from Calais, or were one of the 25 sucessfully rescued by Dan Snow’s ingenious Sunday speedboat service, before it was shut down by French authorities, who also heard of his plan via Twitter.

    vegetables on display in Nizwa souk, Oman

    Seize the moment! When faced with unexpected produce in an Omani market, I took a photo to remember it by. Allow yourself to enjoy the serendipity of life

  9. Allow for serendipity in your life. Sometimes you just have to relax, make the best choice you feel you can in the circumstances, keep people informed, and live with the consequences. Incidentally, I’d be grateful for any help in identifying the unusual spiky vegetables shown above!

Even in my home village in Kent, I enjoyed the glorious sunsets which were one of the ‘benefits’ of the ash cloud, along with louder and more noticeable birdsong resulting from the absence of background aircraft noise. BBC Radio Kent yesterday interviewed residents of Edenbridge, further west, that normally lies under the final approach flight path into Gatwick airport, who reported that they’d noticed this to an even greater extent.

By the way, when it came to me making a choice of route during my recent lone trip through the mountains of Oman, I thought you’d like to know that I chose the adventurous  route shown in the photograph at the beginning of this post, rather than the tarmac ‘black top’. It was well worth the experience!

If you’re involved in the UK visitor economy and your business has been affected by the ash cloud and consequent travel disruption, Visit Britain would like you to complete a survey. Read how to take part.

If you were ‘on the road during the last week and have any comments or advice to pass on to fellow travellers as a result of your experiences, do let me know.

Did you enjoy reading this post? Virtual Viv could write for your organisation. I  can help with PR and marketing or write content for tourism businesses online or offline. Comment about what I’ve written below, or contact me at Manifold Associates.

Until next time…

Bedouin hospitality: a lesson for us all

Camels at a Bedouin camp

The Bedu of the Wahiba Sands use camels to help them supplement their income with revenues from tourism

An encounter with the Bedu of Oman
I’ve just returned from a trip to the Middle East. I’ve learned so many new things and enjoyed so many incredible experiences, that I’m going to be kept busy for many weeks assimilating all the information.

One of the activities I’d organised in advance of my visit to Oman was an overnight stay in the vast sand dunes of Wahiba, which included an encounter with the Bedu, one of the oldest tribal peoples of the world.

Tracing their ancestry from mythical Kahtan (Yoktan) of Yemen, identified in the Old Testament as a descendant of Noah, these tribesmen of southern Arabia continue to live a nomadic life, albeit today, as I discovered to my surprise, in the Wahiba Sands at least, with the aid of such 21st century accoutrements as mobile phones and 4WD vehicles alongside their camels and traditional woollen tents. Apparently in some areas of ‘The Empty Quarter’ of the Arabian peninsula camels do still remain the only feasible form of transport, mainly because of the lack of petrol stations for refuelling vehicles!

More information about Oman.

Lessons in self sufficiency
‘Leave only footprints’ could be a slogan invented by the Bedu, such is their commitment to self sufficiency, honed over centuries. The desert is too sterile for them to remain in one place for any length of time, and they have no permanent settlements to this day, although some leave the desert to work in local towns. They mostly still live off the products of their animals, which  consist of camels, sheep and goats, drinking their milk, weaving the hair or wool into cloth, and tents for shelter, making leather from the skins and eating the flesh, supplemented with dates from desert oases.

For a long time the Bedu had no need to use money, since all trade with others and the outside world was conducted entirely by bartering. That’s one thing I’ve already  have in common with the Bedu, since I already belong to a local barter group and use bartering to swap surplus produce. 

Is tourism an intrusion?
The Bedu have adapted to tourism in the desert without compromising their way of life. They’ve successfully managed to capitalise on new opportunities to generate revenue now coming their way, and I was interested to see how they’ve done this.

In the encampment to which our guide took us, one of the Bedu women was using her ability to capture snakes and scorpions on a daily basis. She puts them on display in jars to show visitors, before releasing them without harm back into the desert again at night. The Bedu have also cottoned on to the idea that some of the hand made textiles they weave can be made into articles for purchase by visitors as a souvenir.  Of which more later. Visitors are also offered a camel ride for 3 Omani rials (approxinmately £6) per head.

A tradition of hospitality
Hospitality is an essential part of Bedouin life and forms part of their code of honour to offer strangers protection in a world fraught with danger. Meetings were originally seen as an opportunity to exchange news with others, and guests are always therefore genuinely welcomed. It is necessary and expected that visitors take off their shoes when entering a tent.

No English is spoken. We were accompanied by a guide who explained everything to us; but everyone can also communicate by gesture and expression. It’s also worth mentioning that the Bedu women do not like to be photographed.

Every guest is offered small saucerless cups of sweet black coffee and dates from a dish, which it is impolite to refuse. After one cup it is acceptable to refuse anything further by twisting your wrist to shake the empty cup slightly up and down from side to side.

More information about the Bedouin way of life

How everyone benefits
Today’s visitors are more than a matter of curiosity for the Bedu. Although there’s a genuine welcome, as our Guide explained, in exchange for the entertainment value (for women) of being dressed up as a Bedouin, the possibility of seeing some snakes or scorpions, and the refreshments, (for which no money changes hands), there’s an expectation that visitors will give something back in exchange, which is absolutely fair. After all, the Bedu have need of hard cash if they’re to run 21st century cars and mobile phones!

In my own case, I’d previously experienced a camel ride, so I was more interested in the shopping opportunities. I very much liked some of the cushions on offer; but bearing in mind the space restrictions of my suitcase, I settled in the end for a colourful hand woven wool spectacle case for recently acquired reading glasses. One that no-one else is likely to have, and something I’ll find hard to leave behind! Also on offer were a variety of key rings and other woven articles.

hand woven spectacle case

I purchased this hand woven spectacle case from the Bedu in a desert tent in the Wahiba Sands of Oman

What we can learn from the Bedu

• It doesn’t matter if you don’t speak the language, you can communicate your meaning with smiles and gestures

• It gives everyone great pleasure to receive a genuine welcome on arrival, anytime, anywhere

• Share your passions with enthusiasm, and visitors may be persuaded to buy into the idea or even part with hard earned cash to enjoy a share of the action

• Self sufficiency is a noble aim

• Material possessions and status symbols have no place in a desert

• At night, with no electricity or light pollution, you can see the most amazing number of stars

Have you had an encounter or experience that changed your attitude to life? Do tell me about it or comment below.

Did you enjoy reading this post? Virtual Viv could write for you. I  also help or teach people  how to market a tourism business online or offline. Comment about what I’ve written below, or contact me at Manifold Associates.

Until next time…

In praise of the English market town

Bell Alresford

The Bell, in the High Street, Alresford

My personal favourites

In my most recent travels in the UK, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting, working in and indeed staying overnight in some very special places. What Midhurst in West Sussex, New Alresford in Hampshire, and Cranbrook, near where I live in Kent, all have in common are that they are all typically English market towns, where markets are in fact actually still held.

Indeed I’d actually go as far as to say that they are amongst my very favourite places in England. None of them have the international fame enjoyed by such towns as Stratford Upon Avon, or Ludlow, yet for me they typify all that’s great in Britain. Visitors love them.

What market towns offer the visitor

What each of these towns all have in common are what’s uncharmingly called a ‘high quality built environment’. This means they all have a wealth of charming listed buildings, set amid an attractive network of streets, lovingly protected from inappropriate eyesores by benevolent but eagle eyed planning authorities who are proud of the effectiveness with which they police  the official central ‘conservation area’, which often consists of an ancient high street and central marketplace.

The first thing I notice and appreciate is how  a majority of the shops are unique to the local area, and are independently owned and run. In fact there’s a noticeable dearth of branded chain stores. This also helps to make each of them all a paradise for the amateur photographer. Here neon signs are anathema. Tasteful chalk boards and rustic hanging signs advertising ancient hostelleries are in, and local property prices are usually  on the rise.

The trio of towns I’ve mentioned, are also all slightly off the beaten track; yet located sufficiently close to major communication networks  to be easy for visitors to reach. That’s only if they know about them, however, since none of them are any longer on the way to anywhere in particular.

Both Midhurst and Cranbrook used to be linked to the railway network, but are no longer, whereas Alresford has its very own steam drawn heritage railway, the Watercress Line. Midhurst is bypassed by the A3 near Petersfield, Alresford is bypassed by the A31 and the M3; and as for Cranbrook, well that’s bypassed too, by the A21 to Hastings.

My accommodation picks

In Alresford, I like to stay at The Bell. Now under French ownership, it’s really more of a restaurant with rooms rather than a pub, or a full service hotel. You’ll pay around £30 for a top notch 3 course dinner with a glass of wine; and from £60 for overnight accommodation.  If you stay more than one night I recommend taking a trip out to the nearby Bush Inn at Ovington, It’s quite hard to find but well worth the journey for its lovely location on the banks of the crystal clear river Itchen.

In Midhurst the lovely centrally located Spread Eagle is usually over my budget, (if you’re very lucky you might just pick up a room midweek for £90, but expect to pay more). However there are compensations – the food’s absolutely top quality, and it’s always a pleasure to run a meeting there.

I usually stay at the Halfway Bridge Inn, out on the A 272 Petworth Road, beyond the Cowdray Park  golf club and Benbow Pond, where I used to enjoy childhood picnics many years ago.  Comfortable contemporary rooms here start at £75 for bed and breakfast, and are housed in the converted Cowdray Barns featuring gorgeous French bath potions brimming with essential oils. The food is excellent, and a cooked to order dinner followed by full English breakfast the next day will really set you up for a busy day ahead.

Cranbrook is near home, so I haven’t actually stayed at The George, but it has a cosy bar and dining room, and if you feel like pushing the boat out you might be able to secure a table at Michelin starred Apicius, a few doors down Stone Street. Booking well in advance here is essential.

Do you know an English market town and can recommend a place where you can stay and enjoy a meal? Do let me know about your favourite places.

Why not commission Virtual Viv to write about and photograph about your local area or business. I can create or write anything from website content or advertorials to news releases  – and I’ll take real pride in doing a great job for you. Contact me at Manifold Associates

Until next time…