Fragrance: the hidden persuader
Orange blossom: source of the cool and uplifting essential oil neroli, one of the fragrances of choice for transport operators seeking to mask unpleasant odours and promote relaxation when temperatures soar.
The power of fragrance
I bet you’d instantly recognise the smell of neroli, or, come to that, the all pevasive smell of kerosene that you can’t avoid in the open at an airport on a warm day!
Returning to the more pleasant fragrance of neroli, take a trip to your nearest stockist of essential oil (try chemists, health food shops or a hebalist such as Culpeper) and try a quick spritz from the the tester for orange flower water, or neroli essential oil. Now close your eyes and ask yourself how you feel.
Just a whiff is enough to send me back to my trip last spring to Seville, a deligtful Andalusian city where the streets are planted with orange trees. They happened to be in full bloom when I visited in March, so the very air was fragrent with the distinctive scent. However, somewhat more suprisingly, if I close my eyes, the fragrance sends me back to a certain childhood journey from Palma airport to a Majorcan hotel on the other side of the island, in an antiquated charabang with linen antimacassars. It also reminds me of innumerable non air conditioned waiting rooms, and trains in hot Mediterranean countries, during my student days.
It’s all because neroli engenders feeling of coolness, calm and relaxation. I guess that’s why the fragrance remains popular in warm countries, and is used to offset a stressful environment, even if nowadays it gets pumped out via air conditioning units or ionisers.
In my mind, there’s no doubt that certain fragrances have a powerful effect on the emotions. Neroli and kerosene are just two of many.
‘Fragrance branding’: the business view
Have you noticed the pungent smell that surrounds every Lush store in the UK. They sell ‘fresh handmade cosmetics’. They seem to have a presence on many of the High Streets I frequent, including Bluewater, or Regent Street in London. ‘A lot of people don’t like the smell’ admitted Mark Constantine, who heads up the firm, in a recent interview for The Sunday Times. However, it’s a fact that you simply can’t ignore it. For example I’m aware of the brand simply because of the smell. Personally I’m not keen on strong smells; but I certainly know where the nearest branches are, should anyone ask!
Lush may be the most unsubtle proponent of ‘fragrance branding’ in the UK, but it’s actually a key part of their marketing strategy to create a more fragrant high street, with Constantine freely admitting that he deliberately allows a third of his soap product to evaporate – something he calls it ‘the angels share’.
” What I love in my business is creating an effect without you necessarily knowing how I’ve done it, so there’s a touch of magic.
People are used to words and poetry, so you have to work like nobody’s business to get an effect with them. It’s the same thing with music. But perfume! Nobody has a barrier for that, they haven’t a clue what I’m doing – I can nip in there, grab part of your brain and your emotions and you don’t even know what I’ve done. I can get to people’s emotions, it’s a great privilege.”
How and why does fragrance branding work?
Companies who use fragrance branding are rarely as open as Lush, because they are wary of being accused of being manipulative; but if you stop and think I bet you could name quite a few retailers and other businesses who already use it, such as Abercrombie and Fitch. I would guess that places with high indoor footfall and a captive audience have the greatest potential. Retailers of fragrance are obviously likely to try it, as are airlines and hotels.
So it’s no co-incidence that so many British supermarkets have in store bakeries; or that estate agents and ‘home stagers’ who advise vendors on sellling homes continue to recommend use of scented candles, home baked bread, or the aroma of fresh coffee to impress prospective buyers.
I believe that the concept works because if, as a business, or retailer, you offer up the right sort of subtly fragranced environment, it’s likely to provoke a feeling of well being, and that people who feel happy and relaxed are likely to be in the mood to spend! Fragrance may provoke strong emotions, but a pleasant fragrance can be used as a marketing tool!
There are fashions in fragrance as in anything else. Haven’t you noticed how leading retail brands such as Marks and Spencer, Waitrose and Method, have all developed a line of lavender scented liquid soaps, dishwashing liquid and cleaners recently.
I definitely find synthetic food or pot pourri fragrances can be a turn off; and I always notice if a strong smell is trying to mask an underlying less pleasant niff, so this is a strategy is unlikely to succeed. It can definitely backfire if any smell is over the top and too strong. Lush might be an exception. Generally I think that fragrance needs to be carefully matched to the tastes of the target audience, and that’s a job for experts.
Where to learn more
If you want to learn more about fragrance and perfume and how it’s made, simply fly off to Nice in the south of France, and travel inland to Grasse, or visit the websites of the perfume manufacteres there.
Grasse is one of the world’s major centres of fragrance blending and manufacture, using essential oils from locally grown flowers. The factories of major firms, such as Fragonard or Molinard, are open to the public to visit. You can even get a personalised fragrance created just for you.
Frangrances that conjure up England
Personally speaking, although I think it suits a warm and humid climate, I don’t think that a fragrance based on pure neroli creates an ambience appropriate for places in England. Since the country is internationally known for gardens, a more subtle floral based fragrance blend could be the answer; but, since it tends to be a very individual thing to find something right, I thought I’d list a few fragrance houses that capitalise on their English heritage, so that you can pursue your own investigations. You’ll find some hold the warrant to supply the royal household. Many of the websites give information about stockists, including retail outlets and department stores across the country:
- Bronnley
- Crabtree and Evelyn
- Floris
- Jo Malone
- Liz Earle
- Molton Brown
- Penhaligons
- Woods of Windsor
- Yardley
Here are just a few other pleasant natural fragrances that somehow seem appropriate, and that most people would be happy to encounter :
- fresh mown grass
- new leather
- vanilla
- chocolate
- caramel
- salty sea air
- log fires
- freshly starched cotton or linen
If you have any more ideas to add to the list, or if you’ve dabbled in fragrance branding yourself, I’d love to hear about it.
Until next time…


